![]() It's nice to have more options, not fewer, when it comes time to edit. Shoot full frame, and just keep in mind when framing the shot how you're likely to crop later. ![]() I would advise not to be tempted to just set the camera to 16:9 to shoot, because that'll reduce your options later. If your camera shoots in a 3:2 or 3:4 or 4:5 ratio, odds are you're going to want to crop for HD video, so a 16:9 ratio. Just again be aware that the settings may need to change for the different crop ratio to look their best.Ĭropping is very likely going to need to happen. ![]() One of the big benefits of using Aperture for this is that it's easy to create multiple crops, and if you vignette on a 16:9 crop, then change the crop to square, the vignette will wrap with it. A time lapse that goes from day to night, as this one here does, may not benefit from a universal white balance shift. Also, if you have objects moving through the scene, you'll need to consider that a big soft heal spot may work fine on a big blue sky, but if something detailed moves into that space in your image, the retouching spot may do more harm than good.ĭo you need to make any changes to exposure, white balance, saturation, etc.? Again just because a setting works on one photo, it may not be appropriate as the light changes. You may want to spot check a few shots further down the line though, in case changes in exposure or environment reveal additional spots. Using Scott's awesome technique for finding hidden sensor spots using a sine-wave curve, locate and eliminate every nasty sensor spot you can find. Let's talk about retouching sensor spots first. You don’t really want to have to retouch all of these individually, do you? Even retouching if you have sensor spots showing up in the sky, you probably don't want to retouch 20 spots on 10,000 photos. Eek! Exposure, cropping, vignetting, whatever you may want. Since every frame is going to need essentially the same edit (barring any sudden changes in the environment you need to compensate for), you should be able to do whatever edits you want to one photo, then lift and stamp that effect to all the others. That's a lot of photos to edit! Unless, of course, you're using Aperture. You can watch flowers bloom, buildings construct, ice shelfs melt all kinds of things.Ī movie could be made of up hundreds or even thousands of frames (individual photos). You may have seen it on Instagram already, which is actually what inspired this post.Ĭreating a time lapse is, at it's core, just a series of still images taken at regular intervals (once per second, 10 seconds, minute, hour, day, whatever) over an extended period of time, then strung together as a movie, creating a time-compressed effect. My favorite so far is of the Las Vegas strip, going from dusk to dark. Why not we had lots of time to kill waiting for light to change, and a truckload of cameras (literally), so I made a few. I jokingly suggested they watch this movie (which is probably a very insensitive film to many people, so unless you have the stomach for disrespectful humor you may want to skip it… fair warning? OK, here): “Intervention” by Cristina Valdivieso & Jon Connor.Īnyhow, I got into the game. But I just came off a job (recording two new video training courses for, yay!) and the crew is really, really into time lapse. This video on Vimeo provides some overview on how to export videos using custom settings from WLMM.Personally I've only ever made a few time lapse movies, and honestly just never got that into it. In terms of output, H.264 is not a file type, but a compression standard that can be applied to a number of different video "container formats" such as. If it were me I would want to ensure that the same processing was applied to every image in the sequence, so although some images may border on being under/over-exposed, transitions from light to dark and vice versa are captured properly. Looking at the online help for Windows Live Movie Maker, it seems that WLMM does notĪllow the import of RAW files, and so I guess you'll have to convert the images to something such as jpeg/tiff/png (See this answer for a guide to image file formats) first and then import these into WILMM to make your time-lapse. See this question for more discussion on this. I don't have access to Windows Live Movie Maker at the moment, but one reason why you may be having difficulties is because, strictly speaking, CR2 (or any type of RAW) files are not images they're just the data that is recorded by the camera when you press the shutter (so light levels plus details of the settings used and sometimes a little jpeg thumbnail image that shows what a typical image could look like when produced from this data). ![]()
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